Tips & Advice
Factory vs Aftermarket Speakers: Is Upgrading Actually Worth It?
Blackout Window Tinting
7 min read
Factory speakers seem fine—until you hear what you're missing. Learn what makes aftermarket speakers better and when the upgrade is actually worth the cost.
"My factory speakers sound fine."
We hear this all the time. And it's true—you don't know what you're missing until you hear what better speakers actually sound like.
Then there's no going back.
Why Factory Speakers Are Mediocre
They're Cost-Optimized, Not Sound-Optimized
Car manufacturers optimize for:
- Cost — $5-15 per speaker
- Weight — Lighter is better for fuel economy
- Fit — Works in the standard location
- Reliability — Won't fail during warranty period
Sound quality? That's maybe 5th on the priority list.
The Construction Difference
| Component | Factory Speaker | Quality Aftermarket |
|---|---|---|
| Cone material | Paper/poly blend | Treated paper, woven materials, composites |
| Magnet | Small ceramic | Large ferrite or neodymium |
| Voice coil | Thin, basic | Larger, better heat dissipation |
| Surround | Foam (degrades) | Rubber (lasts decades) |
| Basket | Stamped steel | Cast aluminum or injection molded |
What This Means for Sound
Factory speakers deliver:
- Narrow frequency response
- Distortion at higher volumes
- Poor bass extension
- Muddled midrange
- Harsh, fatiguing highs
Aftermarket speakers provide:
- Wider frequency response
- Clean sound at any volume
- Better bass from the same size driver
- Clear, defined midrange
- Smooth, detailed highs
When Upgrading Makes Sense
Good Candidates for Speaker Upgrades
You should upgrade if:
- You genuinely enjoy music (not just background noise)
- You spend significant time in your car
- Current speakers distort at moderate volume
- You want clearer vocals and instruments
- Factory system lacks bass
You're keeping the car for 3+ years (investment has time to pay off)
Probably Don't Upgrade If
- You mostly listen to talk radio/podcasts
- The car is a beater you're selling soon
- You play music at low volumes only
- Budget is extremely tight
- Factory "premium" system is already good
The "Premium" Factory Audio Myth
What "Premium" Actually Means
When manufacturers offer a "premium audio package," you get:
- More speakers (not necessarily better)
- Branded name (Bose, JBL, Harman Kardon, etc.)
- Factory amplification
- Usually DSP processing
Are Premium Systems Good?
The honest answer: They're better than base audio, but still not great by enthusiast standards.
Bose, JBL, Mark Levinson quality ranking (subjective but based on experience):
| System | Typical Quality | Worth Upgrading? |
|---|---|---|
| Base factory | Poor | Absolutely |
| Standard Bose | Acceptable | Often yes |
| JBL/Infinity | Good | Maybe |
| Mark Levinson | Very good | Usually no |
| Burmester/B&W | Excellent | Rarely |
Reality: Even "premium" systems cut corners—just less dramatically than base systems.
What to Upgrade: Component vs Coaxial
Coaxial Speakers (All-in-One)
What it is: Tweeter mounted in center of main speaker; direct replacement for factory.
Pros:
- Easy installation
- Lower cost
- Single unit replaces single factory speaker
Cons:
- Tweeter placement isn't ideal
- Limited high-frequency dispersion
- Sound staging less precise
Best for: Budget upgrades, rear speakers, simple improvements
Component Speakers (Separate)
What it is: Separate woofer and tweeter with external crossover.
Pros:
- Tweeter mounts at ear level
- Superior sound staging and imaging
- Better high-frequency detail
- Maximum sound quality
Cons:
- More complex installation
- Higher cost
- May require custom mounting
Best for: Front speakers, sound quality focus, enthusiast builds
Our Recommendation
Front: Component speakers (mounted properly) make the biggest difference.
Rear: Coaxials are fine—rear fill doesn't need precision.
Speaker Sizes and Compatibility
Common Sizes
| Location | Common Factory Sizes |
|---|---|
| Front door | 6.5", 6x9, 5.25" |
| Rear deck | 6x9, 6.5" |
| Dash | 3.5", 4" tweeters |
| Rear door | 6.5", 5.25" |
Fit Complications
Simple fit: Your car uses standard sizes with accessible mounting.
Complicated fit: Odd sizes, integrated brackets, sealed door panels, factory amplification.
We check compatibility before ordering. Some vehicles require adapters, brackets, or custom work.
Do You Need an Amplifier?
The overlooked question.
Factory Head Unit Power
Most factory head units output 15-25 watts RMS per channel. That's... not much.
What this means: Your new speakers can handle 75+ watts, but they're getting 20. They'll sound better than factory speakers at the same power, but not dramatically.
With Aftermarket Amplification
Adding a 4-channel amplifier (50-100W per channel):
- Unlocks speaker potential
- Clean, undistorted sound at any volume
- Dynamic range improvement
- Night and day difference over head unit power
Budget reality: Adding an amp roughly doubles your project cost. Worth it for serious improvements; optional for casual upgrades.
When to Add an Amp
Add amplifier if:
- Budget allows $200+ for amp and installation
- You want genuinely impressive sound
- You're adding a subwoofer (needed anyway)
- Factory head unit has low output
Skip amplifier if:
- Tight budget (speakers alone still help)
- Factory "premium" system has existing amp
- Modest improvement is acceptable
Brand Recommendations
Best Value Brands
JBL, Infinity, Pioneer, Kenwood, Kicker
- Good performance at reasonable cost
- Wide product selection
- Easy to find and source
- Proven reliability
Price range: $50-150 per pair
Premium Brands
JL Audio, Focal, Hertz, Morel, Alpine Type-R
- Superior materials and construction
- Better sound quality
- Higher power handling
- Longer warranty
Price range: $150-400+ per pair
What We Install Most
- JL Audio C2 series: Best balance of quality and value
- Focal Integration: Excellent detail for the price
- Kicker KS series: Reliable, punchy, affordable
- Morel Maximo: Smooth, refined sound
Installation Matters More Than Speakers
Dirty secret of car audio: Installation quality affects sound more than speaker brand.
What Professional Installation Provides
- Proper speaker sealing (no air leaks)
- Sound deadening application
- Secure mounting (no rattles)
- Correct wiring gauge and connections
- Crossover tuning (for components)
- Tweeter aiming
Common DIY Mistakes
- Loose mounting causing vibration
- No deadening = lost bass
- Wrong polarity = cancellation
- Poor wiring = noise and weak sound
- Tweeter placement = bad imaging
The math: $150 speakers professionally installed often sound better than $300 speakers poorly installed.
What to Expect After Upgrading
Immediate Improvements
- Clearer vocals
- More defined instruments
- Less distortion at volume
- Better bass (even without sub)
- More "presence" in music
What It Won't Fix
- Terrible acoustics (sound deadening helps)
- Road noise (separate issue)
- Music quality (garbage in = garbage out)
- Head unit limitations (without amp)
Speaker Upgrades at Blackout
We've been upgrading speakers since cassette decks were standard.
What we offer:
- Speaker upgrades (coaxial and component)
- Amplifier installation
- Sound deadening integration
- Full system design
- Factory integration for any vehicle
Our process:
- Listen to your current system
- Discuss goals and budget
- Recommend appropriate speakers
- Professional installation with quality materials
- Sound deadening if needed
- Final tuning and demonstration
📞 Get a speaker upgrade quote — tell us your vehicle and budget.
📍 Visit our Gilroy shop — hear demo speakers.
Related Services
- Complete Audio: Car Audio Services
- Maximize Speakers: Sound Deadening 101
- Add Bass: Subwoofer Guide
Speaker Upgrade FAQs
How much do speaker upgrades cost?
Speakers: $100-300+ per pair. Installation: $75-150 per pair. Total typical project: $300-600 for front and rear.
Will new speakers fit my car?
Usually yes—we check compatibility for your specific vehicle and include any needed adapters.
Do I need to replace all speakers at once?
No—front speakers have the biggest impact. Many people upgrade fronts only.
What about my factory subwoofer?
Factory subs are usually weak. Consider adding aftermarket subwoofer for real bass.
Will this void my warranty?
Audio modifications don't affect powertrain warranty. Only the specific modified components lose coverage.
